i spend a lot of time showing with my photos what an amazing place guatemala is, now i would like to do the same thing but with words, please excuse me if they do run on...
for the first few days i looked for a map, there was none and as my time here stretches from days to weeks i begin to understand why. i don't think even the most skilled cartographer would have a chance at mapping this town that leads from the edge of a crater lake up the side of a volcano. at first when i got off the boat and found myself on what i imagined was the main street, i was wrong, in fact even if it was i would have no way of knowing it as all streets manage to go unmarked as is the same with all the alleys that there are many of! so many so that i continue to take short cuts thinking that this must be the right one and i am sad to say, as i have prided myself on a fairly acute sense of direction, i am running at about a 10-15% success rate.
as you might imagine there a many a hill in san pedro but not the sort you are likely to have come across. there are streets here that are so close to 90 degrees i wonder if that is what they were attempting when it was built. all streets are cobble stone (save the main one by the lake) and they snake up and down, around and across with no discernible system or logic. adding to the confusion are the alleys that are not simply paths to take you from street to street but actually house homes, restaurants, hostels and even my school san pedro! how many times in my first two days did i have to rely on the good will of children to walk me to school (i may have made them late but i certainly made their day) i should clarify, i am not bothered by san pedro's unorganized way actually it is quite the opposite, i find it charming and exciting for a walk to a friend's posada takes me 30 minutes to an hour longer to reach than it should and has me talking to many a person trying to make sense of where i am in relation to where i was an where i am going truly reinforcing the old adage that it is not the destination rather the journey that is important.
the charm is augmented by the lives of the locals who go about there business as i imagine they have done for hundreds if not thousands of years. tackling these ridiculous inclines with no hurry and from outward impressing no cares. not only are they strolling through the towns peaks and valleys but they do so with baskets of goods balanced on their head! (well at least the women and girls) personally i can not balance a basket on my head so putting me on a 60 degree angled street would be 'throwing me to the wolves' assuring that nothing in that basket remained clean and unbruised. the women do this in their traditional dress, which consist of three parts: first a wrapped skirt that's a multitude of colours if it's one, a blouse with delicate stitching and the look is completed with an even more intricately woven belt that ties around. the older ladies sometimes can be seen wearing an apron on top of the skirt that is often used to carry fruits, vegetables (or anything really) while they balance a basket on there head.....wow..... the men while not balancing baskets on their heads are themselves fascinating to look at as the majority carry a machete (sheathed) wear what we'd refer to as a cowboy hat and sporting traditional pants hand stitched with intricate embroidery all about. the youngish boys are about the only demographic that is not found wearing what i can only imagine is their culture's traditional wear.
it is almost impossible, even if you tried, to walk down the street and not be greeted with a friendly buenos dias, buenos tardes, buenos noches (depending on the time of day). these innocent greetings at least appear to be genuine and more often than not end up in a small conversation that will last either the length of the walk or in my case the length of my spanish abilities. the streets are usually filled with locals chatting in their local tongue (a beautiful maya dialect, suwoheely {sp}) going about their daily routine and smiling all the while.
lest we forget that san pedro is located on a crater lake. it stands to reason (as it is in fact the case) that it is surrounded by volacnos. no matter where you walk there is always going to be a peak, or two, in the not so far distance. san pedro located at 1500 meters in within 2 to 4 hour walk of its nearest peaks, indian head and volcano san pedro, respectively. if you enjoy fresh water swims then you would be in heaven, floating on your back with the most stunning vistas imaginable looming over you. maybe looming is too ominous a word, perhaps 'a protective surround peaks and crests dot the skyline much like buildings do in city centers' might have been more appropriate, i will let you the reader decide.
now i have forsaken maps as i have forsaken direction. not wearing a watch i am only interested in being home and on time for lunch and dinner (mmmmmm foooooood). i have taken to stopping and chatting, wether young or old, known or unknown, it matters not. i have taken to san pedro as operah once took to ham (and i don't think either of us will soon forget our respective loves, no matter how far i go or how many diets are tried, respectively....of course). NOTE: i know trashing operah is not good for business but i just had to)
